“The Spaniards talk while the Portuguese listen”…our Portuguese guide proudly regaled to our group of journalists from all across Europe (yes, including a Spaniard) over a delicious traditional Portuguese lunch of spicy chicken and fresh salad.
The Spaniard (rather ironically) opened his mouth to respond with an anecdote of Spanish life while the Portuguese guide disclosed his amusing insight into national traits (the Danes: most enthusiastic and up for anything, the French: most likely to complain, the Brits…nice people but most likely to get drunk…)
Putting my wine glass down, I realised our guide had a point. I love Spain, I’ve lived there, studied there and worked there, and I have yet to find a country in the world I love more. But, (and this is a big but) it is loud. So loud in fact it has been rated the world’s second nosiest country (after Japan) and while this is part of its charm (walking into a quiet Spanish coffee shop would definitely freak me out) it’s also what makes it so completely different to its eastern neighbour…Portugal.
I was enjoying a visit to Portugal’s southern Algarve region where I was promised an insight into the ‘Hidden Algarve’. And where I discovered the only noises that disturbed me come nightfall were frogs… (and the occasional cricket).
To get us started we began our trip in a rural village called Alte – just over an hours drive from Faro. The village is a true gem and gives you a real taste of traditional Portuguese life. Nestled up in the hills away from the coast you’ve got some great views, and while getting around is hard work due to the gradient, the scenery (and impressive sunsets) makes it all worth it.
A great way to see the local countryside is to join a walking trail. The Portuguese government has helped fund the Via Algarviana (www.viaalgarviana.org) – a project which has created over 1,000 kilometres of walking trails in the area. They are clearly signposted which make getting around easy. Routes also take in villages and other communities where you can take a breather, stay the night or grab something to eat.
If walking sounds like too much hard work you could see the sights by jeep. This was one of my favourite trips (in part due to the crazy jeep driver whose anecdotes kept us all thoroughly entertained). And it was a fun way to learn more about the Algarve’s varied natural beauty. This said, nothing beats our final tour of the area, when we were joined by two local donkeys. They plodded along beside us as we walked along the cliffs overlooking the west coast and obediently carried a delicious picnic of baked sweet potato and carrot cake for us to nibble on by the sea.
The rustic charm of it all definitely appealed to me, which is probably why projects like the Pedralva village (www.aldeiadapedralva.com) are now starting to take of in the area. This village was once deserted and unkept, but a Portuguese couple have spent their own time and money to develop it into a fully functioning community. Locals reside there and cottages are let out to tourists – the ideal way for intrepid holiday makers to get a flavour of life away from the main tourist resorts.
As well as great scenery, charming accommodation and gorgeous weather (I got lucky – apparently this winter has been particularly wet) Portugal also has some delicious local food. Our guide readily admitted the Portuguese aren’t renowned for their presentation skills, however what the food lacks in style it makes up for in flavour. Those looking for wholesome, tasty dishes, without an air or grace in sight will be in food heaven. Fresh fish is a particular highlight (you have to order the Cataplana fish stew) and you definitely shouldn’t leave without trying the local firewater (girls you can [and perhaps should] opt for the one infused with honey…guys, you’ll just have to man up…).
So, would I say I’ve experienced the Algarve’s hidden side? Without question. No one likes comparisons (anyone heard the one about the Englishman, Irishman and the Scotsman?) but journey away from the Algarve’s more developed south coast and you’ll find a rugged beauty where the pace of life slows down, the western coastline resembles that of our own southern belle, Cornwall and you’ll find it won’t just be the Portuguese who’ll be sat, just listening…
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